PC10
The PC10 Recipe
Lets see for 100 gallons (Imperial btw) of PC10 dope
260 pounds nitro Cellulose syrup
74 pounds of pigments in the following proportions
40 pounds yellow ochre
30 pounds umber
2 pounds 8 ounces Red Ochre
1 pound 8 ounces Chinese Blue.Once that lot was assembled it was added to
20 gallons Acetone or Methyl ethyl ketone
15 gallons Amyl Acetate
15 Gallons benzol
15 gallons Methylated spirit(Source for this recipe wwi British aeroplane colours and markings by Bruce Robertson) However this was one general recipe and the key was it was a general one.
Post by Ray Boorman. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
"Does anyone opn this list have a favourite recipe for PC10? Enamels or acrylics."
PolyScale PC-10 'nuff said.
Post by Allan Wright. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
Personally, I have a bottle of the PolyScale PC-10 and I think it's too far toward the green end of the brown-green spectrum; I would tend to add some "Dark Earth".
Post by Micheal Kendix. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
I love this list!
Actually I like it, as the green end, you can always brown it down to represent other shades. PC-10 was more of an idea than a color. Since usually mixed in the field for repairs and refits, it rarely was consistant. Sometimes I varry multiple models in a flight (I use my models for wargaming) just because of this.
One can also mix a different color for a wing to represent recovering a wing's fabric in the field.
Post by Allan Wright. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
Pollyscale smollyscale its much more fun making PC10 with my ceramcoats using whatever until I get the colour looking right. Never dries in the airbrush, has a nice sheen and I can make it slightly different for each batch just like the originals. With the windsock datafile special around you even get a starting recipe for PC10. Actually I'm only saying this part tongue in cheek, I have as much fun mixing the colours as I do from painting.
Post by Ray Boorman. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
Same here- I enjoy mixing my own. I'll usually grab whatever olive drab is closest, dump it in an old film canister and start doctoring it, usually with a spot of red, then yellow, maybe a molecule or two of white. OR, if I'm lazy, I'll grab olive drab and dump in a tad, or sometimes a smidgeon of bright brown, like Testors "leather". This makes a really "hot" color, so I'll cool it down with a tadlet of some light gray. Since some slight, general possibilty of a hint that maybe the earlier PC 10 was sort of more on the greenish side and the later mixes were a bit browner, I'll take that into account with the amount of red and/or "leather" that gets dumped into the mess.
Post by Robert Karr. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
I use a mixture of paints to create P.C.10, and I am proud to say that no two models in the collection have the same exact shade! :-)
Basically, I use Tamiya "Olive Drab" and "Khaki" about 2/3 OD to 1/3 Khaki, then add in Gunze-Sanyo "Dark Earth" for tonal differences to get it toward the brown end.
To do "P.C.12," as I did for the Snipe (nobody can say for sure if it was P.C.10 or P.C.12, and I was just curious), I added in a bit of Tamiya Flat Orange, since P.C.12 has an orangish tint I am told by the experten here.
Post by Tom Cleaver. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
Use ceramcoat ... mix Brown and English Yew together - perhaps a drop of black and or yellow. . go carefully .. a little black goes a long way in mixing.
Post by Bob Pearson. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
There are a lot of possiblilities, since PC-10 varied in shade with weathering, time of the war, etc. etc.
Some of the favorites are Testors Model Master Olive Drab 34087, Tamiya IJAAF Green, and my personal favorite for the green end of the scale, 4parts Humbrol 108 RFC Green (discontinued) plus 1 part #29 or 5 part #155 Olive Drab plus 1 part #98 Chocolate. Honestly, though, if you start with one of the Olive Drab range, and one of the Dark Earth or Chocolate (in whatever range of paints you like to use) you will be in the range for PC-10 -- which varied from an olive drab green to a light chocolate in tone. Finish it relatively glossy for fresh and flatten as you age -- but don't go to dead flat on the finish, try for no more matt than a mix of a semigloss and a flat clear varnish in 3:2 to 2:1 ratio on the fabric, glossier on metal, painted wood, and other such 'hard' parts.
Post by Mark Shannon. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.
Start with any FS 34087 Olive Drab. Out of the bottle it'll do for green end PC.10
Add red-brown by stages to get to the browner end of the PC.10 spectrum. And don't believe anyone who tells you than PC.10 is only accurate in one shade, or from one manufacturer.
Post by Shane Weir. Excerpt from the WWI Modeling List Archives.